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Black and White diamonds
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Tourism and the pristine beaches of Freetown, Sierra Leone
By Roland Bankole Marke, July 10, 2010

Bombardment of disenchanting news paraded in the media about Sierra Leone could be
discouraging for tourists and investors alike, prospecting to invest and those seeking an
African vacation. Thus making them think that any news coming from this former war-torn
nation is all doom and gloom.

Can anything good come out of Sierra Leone? Be my guest, come and discover it for
yourself. Tourism is a gold mine in Sierra Leone that provides a big chunk of revenue in
the form of foreign exchange for the government and local businesses. Potential for the
growth of Sierra Leone's tourist industry is both promising and exciting.

This nature’s paradise is as exotic and inviting as its warm, friendly people, their culture
and the numerous, potentially enchanting and pristine beaches in this tourist haven that
remain unknown to most Westerners. The weather compliments an azure sky that
romances the Atlantic sea breeze whispering through palm and coconut trees: While the
humidity relaxes one's body with a cool and soothing effect. The climate allows for the
growth of tropical crops and fruit trees, a necessary source of daily fiber in a healthy diet.
Fruit trees usually bloom in most backyards or along the route leading to the beaches. It
is a sweet romantic experience plucking juicy mangoes or juicy oranges from the trees,
stimulating one's taste buds. The fruits are naturally grown. Call it organic if you choose.

Unlike other war-torn countries, Sierra Leone is incessantly striving to get back on its feet
and possibly walk upright again, but not unaided. Although its challenges are
multifaceted, the United Nations has given her high grades for having emerged from a
harrowing decade-long civil war and refusing to be called a failed state, instead charting
out a new path to recovery and rehabilitation. Debt relief for Sierra Leone has increased
in volume and intensity from Western countries and international agencies; progress
appears ongoing. Religious tolerance flourishes in Sierra Leone. There are many
religious and indigenous beliefs, which people practice without fear or prejudice. Unlike
Nigeria and a few African countries, people respect each other’s belief and strive to live
side by side in peace and harmony. Even though about 30% of the population embraces
Christianity and the remaining 70% are Muslims, including other traditional beliefs. No
one religion plays a dominant role. Interreligious marriages are common and workable.
As a result of the nation’s open door foreign policy, international religious tolerance
works here.

Sierra Leone is situated on the west coast of Africa, flanked by the Republic of Guinea
on the north and Liberia on the east and northeast. The Atlantic Ocean borders the west
and south, stretching about 300 miles along the coastline. The nation has a tropical
climate, which is divided into two prime seasons — the dry season extends from
November to April and is the best time to plan a vacation or visit. The rainy season is
from May to October. December to February is the Harmattan period when the dry wind
from the Sahara desert transports cool temperatures inland. If you can't take a little chill
you might consider bringing a spring jacket during this period.
There is only one international airport in Sierra Leone — Lungi International Airport,
which is separated from Freetown by the Sierra Leone River. It takes about 30 to 45
minutes to ferry across the river to Kissy Dockyard or Government Warf. The trip can be
slow, or sometimes a ferry might break down from overuse or inadequate maintenance.
Helicopter and hovercraft services are also available — it takes about seven minutes to
fly from the airport to Freetown. Most tourists prefer to be taxied by hovercraft or
helicopter service that takes them directly to the hotels along Lumley Beach.

About a dozen seductive beaches are strategically scattered along the coastline in the
capital city, Freetown. These include: Lumley, Goderich, Lakka, Mammah, Number 2
River, Tokeh, Hamilton, Kent, Sussex, York, John Obey and Bureh. Hotels are located in
close proximity to the beaches, usually within walking distance.

Nature is alive and well here, jumping and dancing right in your face. You just cannot
resist the charm and spiritual healing that the beaches offer. It is no secret that those
visiting Sierra Leone consider the beaches indispensable. The beating waves and
seductive fresh cool breeze coupled with the wonderful people are an unbeatable
combination of nature and humanity.
Bintumani Hotel sits on a vantage gradient overlooking the ocean. It's the largest and
most modern hotel in Freetown, with Internet services in every room along with satellite
television — popular channels like CNN or ESPN are readily available. Services are
priced in U.S. dollars. The FIFA World Cup Football must have been a sensational
excitement for both tourists and Sierra Leoneans, who think soccer is the best sports.

Internet cafes are located along the beaches, where one could easily contact friends or
family online. Foreign exchange transactions can be completed on-site. One can cool
down from the alluring sunshine in the hotel's swimming pool or just walk from one's room
to the gorgeous free beach.

Other hotels include Sierra Light House, Cape Sierra, Kumbima and Barmoi. There is a
bargain to suit every budget. Booking a hotel room can be done online. Prices range
from $80.00 to $130.00 per day. The hotels serve a variety of cuisines in the cafeteria or
restaurant.
Tourists never experience a short supply of entertainment at the hotel. A resident band
provides local and western music two or three times a week, including seasonal festivals.
Taking a panoramic view from one's hotel balcony is as romantic as it is refreshing.
Viewing the beating waves and inhaling the soothing Atlantic sea breeze feels satisfying
and mind-enhancing. There is no better way to spend a stress-free vacation away from
the hustle and bustle so prevalent in Western lifestyles.

A maiden trip to the beach is like feasting on a delicacy that you wish would last forever.
There are several beach huts for rent to accommodate a group of people and protect
their belongings. The sparkling white pristine sand is enticing to play on.
Going to the beach has become a ritual for people living in or visiting Sierra Leone.
Some religious groups go to the beach early in the morning to tap its serenity or practice
meditation. Baptism, fasting and prayers are conducted on the beach early in the
morning or late at night. There's a belief that divine providence inhabits the beach,
listening to and answering the genuine requests of people for direction and provision.

Fishing provides a lot of fun both as a recreation and a commercial activity. There are no
restrictions except that the use of explosives is forbidden. Fishing trade provides a
source of livelihood for many people. A fisherman toils with his chain-crafted net,
mending and checking it daily to stay on top of his game. He owns a canoe which he
ferries deep into the ocean, casting his wide net. He's more intuitive than he is cerebral
in choosing the ideal spot to cast his net. At the opportune time of a big catch, he gets
helpers to help pull the net. The story of Jesus and the Fishermen soon crosses one's
mind. The chain could be heavy to pull and would need additional strong men and
women to complete the task.

When the catch arrives ashore, there’s a smile on everyone's face. Fishmongers are
ready to collect and haggle for the catch. Kingfisher birds too claim their own share.
There is enough for the parties. Fish is part of the daily diet in Sierra Leone and
provides the cheapest source of protein.
Bystanders enjoy the fun and make new friends. Peddlers are actively pushing their
wares. Women carry fruit trays or snacks. Children long for the opportunity to meet
potential friends and try to form a bond with them — some may request adoption or
sponsorship to go abroad, where they believe their destiny would change. The children
are genuine, very open and ready to tell their life stories. The value and thirst for
education is very important to them. English is the formal language, though Krio is the
lingua franca, a kind of broken English. It's quick to pick up if only one listens carefully.

Tourists are treated with warmth and courtesy. One would never hear folk say that a
visitor has an accent. In fact visitors are admired and imitated. This derogatory use of the
word is prevalent in the West when referring to an alien or immigrant. In a fast-paced
society patience is in short supply. Here, life seems laid back and folks have the luxury of
time. There is enough to learn and enjoy, invariably a firsthand education is humanizing
and helps visitors to appreciate other people and their culture.

A refreshing experience could be life changing. Movies and books only tell a piece-meal
of a broader and more complex picture. Tourists would often bond with the crime scene
that the well-known movie "Blood Diamonds" featured — a purely commercial fiction that
was not filmed in Sierra Leone, though it created intense global awareness of the
violence and misery associated with the lust and greed for diamonds. Sierra Leone and
its war victims could certainly have benefited from the cash flow invested elsewhere to
film the movie.

Roland Bankole Marke © 2010

Roland Bankole Marke is a Sierra Leonean. He lives in Jacksonville, Florida US. He has published 2
collections of poetry: Teardrops Keep Falling and Silver Rain and Blizzard. His recent book -Harvest of
Hate: Stories and Essays. Marke's work has appeared in anthologies, numerous journals and
magazines, both print and online. Visit his website: www.RolandMarke.com